Care Guide

Chickens can make great pets (that also provide eggs). But before you get chicks:

1. Check local zoning ordinances. Many towns and cities allow chickens, but most have restrictions on numbers, roosters, or set-up requirements.

2. Plan what to do with a cockerel. Most small, local farms offer only straight-run (unsexed) chicks. Even vent sexing, the most reliable type of sexing (aside from DNA), is not 100% reliable. If you want the best chance of not ending up with a cockerel, look for auto-sex varieties like Stars and Comets and/or purchase older pullets.

3. Prepare your set-up. If bringing home chicks that are under 4 to 6 weeks old (depending on your set-up), they will need a heated brooder. Adult chickens will need a secure, dry coop.


THE BROODER

From hatching to around six weeks old, chicks need to be kept indoors with access to heat. Never put new chicks with adult chickens (with the exception of a broody hen, when carefully supervised). Your brooder should contain the following:

1. A secure, draft-free box. A cardboard box, kiddie pool, or dog crate is suitable. Sides should be taller than 12 inches for chicks up to 3 weeks -- even taller for older chicks unless a top is on the box to prevent escapes.

2. A heat source. Chicks need to be kept around 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week and dropped five degrees per week until fully feathered. Heat can be provided by a heat lamp, brooder plate, or you can DIY with a heating pad.

3. Clean water. There are a variety of chick waterers. The ones that use nipple attachments are the most hygienic. Elevating a waterer a little can help it stay clean. You can put marbles in the trough while chicks are little to reduce drowning risks. If your new chicks arrive weak, you can provide electrolytes.

4. Food. Formulated starter/grower feed is the best and easiest to provide. Medicated or non-medicated is a personal choice. (Do not use medicated feed if your chicks have been inoculated against coccidiosis.) If the only feed is a prepared crumble or pellet, chicks do not need grit. But once you start giving treats, make chick grit available. Chickens eat throughout the day, not just at meal times, so make food available at all times.

5. Substrate. Wood shavings are fairly standard for easy cleaning. You can start with paper towels, but they need daily changing.


COMMON CHICK ISSUES

Like most other small animals, chicks that are stressed can develop diarrhea. In chicks, this is known as "pasty vent," and is as basically a dirty, caked butt (vent). Clean affected chicks regularly to make sure their vent is clean and take steps to reduce stress and help them acclimate.

Splay or spraddle leg is an issue affecting a chick's ability to stand and walk. It can be worsened by having slippery surfaces (such as newspaper) in the brooder. It can be corrected by splinting.

Cross beak or scissor beak is an improperly formed beak which can be caused by genetics, incubation conditions, or other factors. Cross beak cannot be cured, but mild cases may not affect the chick at all, and more severe cases can be managed with hand feeding or beak trimming.

Coccidiosis is an often fatal intestinal disease caused by parasites. For this deadly and common affliction, the key is prevention. Quarantine new chickens, and keep the brooder and the water clean. You can also either vaccinate or use medicated feed (but not both). Read more about coccidiosis and treatments. 


THE COOP AND RUN

At 4 to 6 weeks old, you can transition your chicks to living outside -- unless moving in with adult chickens; in which case, they need to get bigger to avoid bullying. Chickens need a safe place to live, which can come in many forms, whether premade coops, kits, converted dog houses or sheds, or DIY from scratch. Here are some guidelines:

1. Coop size. Adult hens each need 2 to 4 square feet inside the coop if they have a run or get to free-range. Bantams will be on the lower end of the space requirement, while heavy breeds will be on the high end. The coop and run combined, if daily free-range is not provided, should provide at least 10 square feet per chicken.

2. Weatherproofing. Staying dry and well-ventilated are of utmost importance! Both in hot and cold temperatures, staying dry is key. Avoid ammonia build-up with ventilation and either weekly cleaning or the deep-litter method. In the winter, make sure chickens have a safe place to huddle that is dry and away from drafts.

3. Predator-proofing. The biggest risks to chickens are nocturnal predators. Make sure the coop is secured against both medium-sized animals such as raccoons, foxes, and opossums and smaller threats like mink and snakes. (Depending on where you live, most snakes in the USA do not pose a threat to adult chickens but will steal eggs.) The biggest day-time threat to chickens is raptors. Make sure runs are covered and/or free-range areas have bushes and other cover.

4. Food and water.  Make food and water available throughout the day. Both can be provided in the run to keep the coop clean but must be secured against rodents. Keep food dry to avoid getting buggy. Chickens can be provided either a layer feed or a general flock feed. If providing lower calcium feed, provide oyster shell to laying hens. Grit should also be available unless the birds can find suitable pebbles by free-ranging. Chickens are voracious omnivores/scavengers and will be happy to process your leftovers and scraps into eggs. Chickens also love to graze on grasses and other plants and eat insects. If chickens have access to your garden, you might lose your garden.

5. Roosting. Chickens' natural instinct is to roost at night. Roosts should be around 18 inches off the ground. Silkies may need lower roosts or a step up since they cannot fly. A ladder configuration with multiple heights works well. Chickens roost flat-footed, rather than perching like a parrot. Make sure roosts are wide enough for their feet (at least three or four inches). Provide around 8 inches roosting space per chicken.

6. Nesting. All breeds of hen lay eggs regardless of whether there is a rooster around. Hens will lay wherever they feel safe enough to do so. Unless you provide nesting boxes, every day will be an Easter egg hunt. Nesting boxes can be purchased or homemade. A covered cat litter box can be a good nesting box. Hens nest low and need to feel safe and secure. Provide one nesting box for every three or four hens.